Between Shanghai and neighbouring cities Suzhou and Hangzhou there are a network of ancient water towns built up around the rivers, lakes and canals which characterize this part of China (and earned it the nickname ‘Venice of the East’, after comparisons were drawn with the similarly watery European city).
Water towns are popular with both Chinese and Western tourists and also expats looking to escape the city for the day (although unless you arrive early doors, you will be lucky to escape the crowds).
A few weeks ago I visited Zhūjiā Jiǎo 朱家角. This was my third water town excursion since moving to Shanghai, having visited Zhōuzhuāng 周庄水乡 – one of the oldest and most popular water towns – shortly after I arrived in 2016 (I blogged about this trip at the time) and then Qibao 七宝古镇 last year with a Shanghainese friend (Qibao is one of the only water towns that you can reach by metro so ideal if you don’t have access to a car – it’s North on Line 9).
A couple of pics from Qibao:
While the water towns vary in size (Zhouzuang at the larger end of the spectrum, Qibao at the smaller), they are otherwise incredibly similar; two-or-three story whitewashed and wooden-fronted houses line up alongside the waterside, squashed against each other like overcrowded teeth; ground-floor food vendors hawking steaming rice dumplings and glossy meats; sinewy strong men in cone-shaped bamboo hats guiding gondola-style boats through the murky green canals; souvenir shops selling beaded bracelets and pearls.
This uniformity lends to a ‘seen one, seen them all’ mentality, but I’d heard good things about Zhujiajiao from a friend who had visited recently, and with the prospect of a sunny day and nothing else scheduled in the diary, I decided that there are worse things than a little de-ja-vu. The rest of this blog is mainly pictures, as I got some good ones – enjoy!
There is a local saying that “to visit Zhujiajiao water town without seeing the bridges means that you have not really been to Zhujiajiao at all!” (regular blog readers will be familiar with this expression, which also cropped up in Huangshan 黄山 and Zhangjiajie 张家界). Given we only spent a couple of hours there, a good hour of which was spent drinking hot green tea in a little cafe overlooking the water, we didn’t see very many of those 36 bridges… so perhaps I have only seen two ancient water towns after all!