After a good 24 hours relaxing into holiday-mode, we decided to book a day-trip to cover some of the key local attractions. The main street is choc-full of tour providers offering an exhausting variety of excursions, but most included elephant riding which Matt and I strongly disagree with so instead we hired private transport – in the form of tuk-tuk and riverboat drivers – and ‘DIY’d’ a tour to the Kuang Si Waterfall and the Pak Oh Buddha Caves, via the Lao Whisky Village.
Kuang Si Waterfall
Our first destination – Kuang Si waterfall – was 29km south of the centre of Luang Prabang; in practical terms, this equated to an hour bumping around in the back of a tuk-tuk over dirt roads dented with gravelly craters, teeth chattering as we clattered over creaky wooden bridges (more fun than it might sound!). Through the dust clouds in our wake we saw lazy buffalo, scrawny chickens, goats, dogs and people performing odd-jobs such as bundling wood or pruning trees. In the background, green as far as the eye could see.
As we approached the entrance to the falls the roadside around us sprung to life with sizzling racks of BBQ meat, towers of fresh young coconut and row after row of ubiquitous elephant-print trousers.
To enter the waterfall area we paid the nominal 20,000 Kip (1.80gbp) admission fee to a girl in a kiosk in exchange for a ticket which we promptly handed to a guy sat less than 2 meters away, then started up a mud-track under a shady canopy of dense trees. Almost immediately – and quite unexpectedly – we came across an enclosure of black bears snoozing atop wooden towers (I’ll come back to this) and shortly afterwards reached the bottom tier of the waterfall – a paradisaical pool of glacier blue water which, quite honestly, blew me away.
You see, I’d managed my expectations so well before we arrived (seen one waterfall, seen them all right?) and convinced myself so conclusively that the promo photos would have been diligently photoshopped by the Laos Tourisism marketing department (water can’t be that blue, right?) that I completely and utterly underestimated the place. It was genuinely incredible!
When I’d recovered from my initial shock (and taken 800-or-so photos) we continued to follow the path past successive pools of milky turquoise until we arrived at the source – a 50m vertical drop of frothy white water, crashing against the limestone rocks*. Having arrived early, we were fortunate enough to be among the first visitors of the day and got some great shots before taking a dip.
* nerdy fact – the limestone is what causes the water to be that insane blue colour.
Back to the bears…
The enclosure that we passed near the entrance to the falls is a sanctuary funded by ‘Free the Bears’, which is home to 23 Asiatic Black ‘Moon’ bears. Most have been rescued from the ironically sickening ‘traditional medicine’ trade, which saw them kept in suffocatingly small metal cages, unable to move, with a catheter inserted directly into their gall bladder to remove the bile – a substance which has been used in traditional Asian medicine for centuries.
The rescued bears looked quite content in their new home; the larger bears were lazing around on the high towers of a huge jungle-gym, and the younger ones were play-fighting and eating chunks of pineapple.
Although the sanctuary sits in the Kuang Si Falls park it sadly doesn’t benefit from the admission fee so they rely on donations of people passing through, and they sell soft toys and t-shirts to raise funds.
Xanghai ‘Whisky’ Village
After visiting the waterfall we headed back to town, grabbed some lunch and then traded our tuk-tuk for a narrow wooden riverboat. In the welcome shade of the boat’s canopy we zipped along the milky-brown waters of the Mekong, passing grandiose villas which neighbored corrugated iron shacks, amidst towering palm trees and lush forest.
After an hour-or-so our driver docked to a wedge of bamboo connected to a flight of rudimentary steps which led us up the riverbank to Xanghai Village – otherwise known as the ‘Whisky Village’.
Matt and I are huge Scotch whisky fanatics (to the extent that our first holiday together was a distillery-crawl around Islay, and a bottle of Ardbeg 10yr old was tucked away in our luggage for this holiday). At the slightest whisper of the ‘W’ word our ears prick up and our noses scout for signs of peat, so we were looking forward to learning a bit about how ‘Lao Lao’ whisky was produced and maybe getting to sample a cask or two. However, we very quickly learned that ‘whisky’ is interpreted a bit differently in Laos.
At the top of the riverbank a young girl standing by a trestle table laden with glass bottles of various concoctions (some which contained snakes or scorpians or other insects) offered us a drop of purple liquid – sans snake – in a shot glass. It tasted a bit like sweet blackcurrant grappa and not in the slightest like any whisky I’ve encountered before, but it wasn’t unpleasant. The sign below told us everything else we (apparently) needed to know, although failed to explain at what point the poor reptiles were jammed in there – a peculiarity which made me feel a bit queasy, physically and morally.
The rest of the village showed little sign of whisky… but lots of signs of weaving. Actually, ‘Weaving Village’ would have been more a appropriate monkier (if less enticing!). For 20 minutes we wandered around the small village in the searing heat, a little bemused, politely declining invitations to purchase scarves and blankets.
Between us we know quite a bit about whisky – both at the production and the consumption end – and while we acknowledge this wasn’t whiskey proper, it also didn’t have enough on show to interest booze enthusiasts. If you are planning to visit Xanghai to see how LaoLao is produced, I’d suggest you avoid it; however, you want to buy some reasonably priced woven goods and see the ladies of the village making it outside their homes, this is probably a good place to stop off!
Pak Oh Buddha Caves
Back on the boat, we zipped along for an hour before docking to a second bamboo deck, above which a whitewashed staircase carved into a limestone cliff signaled our arrival at the Pak Oh Buddah caves. At the bottom of the staircase we handed 40,000 kip to a young guy perched under an umbrella, then climbed the 10-or-so steps into the cave. After the ancillary business of lighting the some incense sticks and wedging them into a pile of ash (another 10,000 Kip “to support the restoration of the caves”), we took stock of our surroundings.
The cave was small and damp and a blanket of Buddhas camouflaged each horizontal surface. Some were as small as my thumb, others were around waist height; some gleamed gold and others decades old, rusty and crumbling; all were covered in a dust of undisturbed cobwebs. The air was still and cool like a chapel and the entrance to the cave formed a beautiful jagged frame of the river.
A notice explained that while local people had used the caves to worship river spirits since the 8th Century, the Buddha statues only started to accrue much later when Buddhism was adopted by the Royal families of Lao having spread from the West in the 16th Century. From that time until 1975, the King and the people of Luang Prabang made an annual pilgrimage to the caves as part of their New Year religious celebrations and commissioned artisans to create sculptures which they entrusted to the cave.
Given the popularity of this place (the caves feature on almost every Mekong River excursion), I had expected to find something quite grand and breathtaking. Instead, I found myself asking Matt: “is this it? Really? It can’t be, can it?!”.
While the cave had an certain natural beauty and the devoted compilation of Buddhas was sweet, it didn’t really blow me away. On reflection, it probably didn’t help that we recently visited the Terracotta Army in Xi’an, which kind of raises your expectations when it comes to large-scale statue collections!
After snapping a few photos we climbed back down the steep white staircase and only then saw a sign pointing to a second cave and a second set of steps (I counted 238, although regular interruptions by small children with puppy-dog eyes selling painted snail-shells and sticks of sugarcane may mean that I’m a step-or-two out).
Gasping we reached the second cave, the entrance to which was blocked aside from a small gate. This absence of natural light created a stellar opportunity for the entrepreneurial young girl who sat outside renting torches for a dollar; by this point we were fed up of people trying to sell us things so made do with the iPhone torch and flash photography, but if you don’t like the dark I recommend you suck it up and hire a torch as it really is pitch black inside!.
There were relatively few statues in this cave compared to the one below and it was a bit underwhelming, but it felt good to get some exercise in!
Post-trip reflections on the caves: If I’d spent 2 hours in a tuk-tuk to get there then I think I’d have been disappointed with what we found; however, the breezy boat ride along the Mekong was such a pleasurable experience that it became the main event and we credited the cave visit as an added extra, an opportunity to stretch our legs and get a deeper insight into what makes this place tick.
For me this day was one of the highlights of our Laos-Cambodia trip; the Kuang Si waterfall was unlike anything I’ve experienced before; in fact, we made a return visit before we left LP…
One more blog on LP to come (I tried and failed to keep it to two posts!)